First flying winemaker dies

Michel Rolland, the influential French “flying winemaker”, has died in Bordeaux, aged 78, after a heart attack, closing a remarkable chapter in modern wine. Known for shaping styles worldwide, his impact reached hundreds of estates across continents.

Born in Libourne, Rolland studied oenology at the University of Bordeaux, later founding a laboratory in Pomerol with his wife Dany. From the 1980s, he advised wineries across France, California, Argentina, Chile and Italy, helping transform winemaking into a global consultancy business.

His hallmark was producing richer, more structured wines, a style that found favour with critic Robert Parker and helped redefine international tastes. Rolland’s influence was especially notable in Argentina, where he contributed to Malbec’s global rise.

Though sometimes criticised for encouraging uniformity, Rolland rejected the idea of a single style. Widely credited with modernising wine, he leaves a legacy that continues to shape the industry worldwide.