Graves's Grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Muscadelle, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is perhaps the most famous red grape. Its home is Bordeaux where it is was created as a cross between Cabernet Franc (red grape) and Sauvignon Blanc (white grape). Since then its popularity has spread and it is grown all around the world. It prefers warmer climates to ripen fully and even in Bordeaux some years it does not ripen. That is why Cabernet Franc is also used in Bordeaux blends as it ripens faster. What makes Cabernet so popular is not its bouquet, which can range from blackcurrants to cigar box, but its structure, typically having both tannins and acidity to create a smooth feeling in the mouth. The structure allows the blending with other grapes, perhaps the most famous pairing is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot where the Cabernet provides the structure and the Merlot gives the wine the soft, rounded feel in the mouth. Recently Cabernet has been mixed with Sangiovese (Chianti's grape) to create the SuperTuscans.

Merlot

Merlot makes luscious, smooth and fruity wines. In spite of this, it�s still perceived as one of the vine world�s great underdogs, most often being unfavourably compared to prized Cabernet Sauvignon, its more austere and frequent blending partner. Planted throughout South West France and much of the rest of the world, Merlot means �little blackbird� in Bordeaux patois, and was so-called because it was said that it�s the grape the blackbird guzzles first and that the bird�s colour resembles the grapes. It produces its most glorious wines in St-Emilion and Pomerol, on the right bank of the Gironde, including Bordeaux�s most expensive wine, Chateau Petrus. Chile's soft plum aromas are a favourite to many consumers. Merlot can adapt to a wide range of soils and microclimates, but it buds, flowers and ripens relatively early, so spring frosts are a danger. Its thin-skinned grapes are also liable to rot in wet vintages. However, Merlot�s lowish fruit tannins make it an excellent early-drinking wine.

Muscadelle

Petit Verdot

The qualitatively excellent Petit Verdot is one of Bordeaux�s classic varieties and has been established in the Medoc probably longer than Cabernet Sauvignon. However, it is no longer planted in any great quantity due to the fact that it ripens so late that in poorer years it doesn't ripen at all. Its other problem is that it is an irregular cropper, which makes it expensive to produce. Having said that, when everything works well, this thick-skinned black grape can produce concentrated, deeply coloured, spicy and tannic wines that are capable of ageing. Such desirable characteristics have found admirers among some of the quality-conscious chateaux and, as a result, it is enjoying a small revival. Traditionally, it has been planted more in the southern Medoc than the north where the soils and, therefore, the wines are lighter and some Petit Verdot in the blend adds deep colour and richness. In recent years other countries, such as Australia, California, Spain and Chile, have been experimenting with Petit Verdot and even using it as a dominant variety. Typically, it can give the flavours of violets, earth, leather, smoke and cigar box, along with the spice, mineral and peppery tones and the mouth-gripping tannins. In France it goes by a few other names � Petit Verdau, Verdot Rouge and Carmelin - and in Chile it�s called just Verdot.

Sauvignon Blanc

Grassy and herbaceous, with the characteristics of gooseberries, nettles and cat�s pee � this can only be referring to one grape variety: Sauvignon Blanc. The grape has its origins in Bordeaux but is now widely cultivated over France and around much of the world. Think of Pouilly-Fume and Sancerre from the Loire � both these wines are made from Sauvignon Blanc and are, probably, the grape in its purest form: crisp, dry, aromatic and unoaked. In Bordeaux, it�s blended, particularly with Semillon, for the dry whites there, but it�s also an ingredient for the region�s luscious dessert wines, such as those of Sauternes and Barsac. On the other side of the world, however, New Zealand has also virtually made this white variety its own, giving the wine a screwcap along the way. Yet this fashionable grape does have its faults. For one, unblended, it doesn�t age. Wines made from Sauvignon Blanc are generally meant to be drunk young, but then that can also be a bonus � as soon as you�ve bought a bottle, you can just chill this zesty little number and enjoy it! On the growing front, it�s susceptible to botrytis, oidium and black rot and will also rot if grown on fertile soils, preferring gravelly or sandy loams, or chalk in parts of the Loire. It also tends to be very vigorous and if it�s allowed to become over-productive on heavy soils, then the characteristics of the wines will be much diluted. Sauvignon Blanc goes by a few other names, the most common probably being Fume Blanc, as it�s known in California.

Semillon

Semillon is a golden grape variety, which can, in the right places, produce great wine. It is grown over much of the world, but is most heavily planted in France, particularly in the appellations in the south west. It excels in white Bordeaux, as part of a blend. Think great, long-lived, dry Graves and the delicious dessert wine Sauternes � and, of course, the sweet bliss Chateau d�Yquem uses Semillon grapes. On the other side of the world, Semillon also proves what a star it is in Australia�s Hunter Valley when it�s allowed to mature in good vintages. This vigorous grower produces thin-skinned grapes which are inclined, if the weather conditions are right, to develop botrytis, the noble rot which is necessary for the unctuous sweet wines. If Semillon is allowed to fully ripen and is sparsely cropped and grown somewhere not too hot then this grape produces highly alcoholic and extracted wine with relatively low aroma and acidity. Semillon has a lemony character when young but this grape lends itself to oak and ageing to become a deep golden-coloured wine with a rich lanolin flavour, often referred to as �waxy�. However, on the negative side, the wines tend to fatness and have little aroma in youth. This is the reason Sauvignon Blanc is Semillon�s traditional blending partner because its qualities of high acidity and strong aroma fill the gaps. More recently, however, Semillon has been blended with other varieties � Chardonnay became an obvious choice in the early nineties when everybody wanted a glass of the stuff. Outside France, it�s biggest plantings are in Chile, but vines are also found in such countries as Argentina, New Zealand, the USA and South Africa. In fact, in 1822, 93 per cent of South Africa�s vineyards were Semillon, imported from Bordeaux. It was so common then that it was just called Wyndruif or �wine grape�. Subsequently, it became Green Grape because of its foliage, but its importance has declined since and now it represents only a tiny area of vineyard. Semillon also goes by a few other names, including, in France, Semillon Blanc, Malaga and Colombier.