Mendoza's Grapes: Bonarda, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Torrontes

Bonarda

Bonarda is an Italian grape variety that is now much more widely planted in Argentina than in its homeland. In fact, it’s the second most widely planted red grape in this South American country (Malbec being the first), covering nearly 19% of the red vineyard area. In Italy the grape has something akin to a split personality because it is, in effect, three grape varieties. Firstly, it is the Bonarda used in the Oltrepo Pavese and Colli Piacentini DOCs, which actually is the Croatina grape. Then it is also Bonarda Novarese, which again isn’t Bonarda but Uva Rara, used in a range of DOC reds in the Novara and Vercelli hills. Lastly, it’s Bonarda Piemontese, an aromatic variety that’s virtually disappeared bar scattered patches on the left bank of the Tanaro. In Argentina there’s a question mark over what sort of Bonarda they are growing, with some believing it might not be any of the Bonarda trio, but another Italian grape called Charbono instead. Whatever, it can produce lighter-bodied, fruity wines, full of cherry and plum flavours as well as, through oak aging, deep-coloured, full-bodied, concentrated reds with fig and raisin characters.

Cabernet Sauvignon

Cabernet Sauvignon is perhaps the most famous red grape. Its home is Bordeaux where it is was created as a cross between Cabernet Franc (red grape) and Sauvignon Blanc (white grape). Since then its popularity has spread and it is grown all around the world. It prefers warmer climates to ripen fully and even in Bordeaux some years it does not ripen. That is why Cabernet Franc is also used in Bordeaux blends as it ripens faster. What makes Cabernet so popular is not its bouquet, which can range from blackcurrants to cigar box, but its structure, typically having both tannins and acidity to create a smooth feeling in the mouth. The structure allows the blending with other grapes, perhaps the most famous pairing is Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot where the Cabernet provides the structure and the Merlot gives the wine the soft, rounded feel in the mouth. Recently Cabernet has been mixed with Sangiovese (Chianti's grape) to create the SuperTuscans.

Chardonnay

Jancis Robinson described Chardonnay as the tart of the grape world, as it would lie down anywhere and do what the winemaker told it to do! In other words it will grow almost anywhere and produce decent and quite stylistically different wines ranging from minerally Chablis, Champagne, buttery fruit wines, tropical fruit wines or oaky vanilla wines. During the late 1990's Chardonnay was the drink of choice for many. However people became bored with the oaky wines found in so many bars and the term, 'ABC' (Anything but Chardonnay) came about. The ubiquitous yet noble Chardonnay grape has virtually become a brand name. From its homeland in Burgundy, its fame and fortune have taken it all over the world. It�s grown on different soils in varying climates to be used either as a single varietal or in blends, for still and sparkling wines, and with or without oak ageing to create a wide range of wines with diverse personalities. As a result, it�s impossible to describe a typical Chardonnay. For a start, the grape can make anything from an everyday glugger to a high-quality wine deserved of ageing. Its popularity in the vineyard stems from the fact that it�s easy to grow, consistently yielding generously with relatively high sugars (and, therefore, alcohol). In the winery its advantages are obvious � it�s difficult to make a poor wine from it, unless it�s been picked too late, because then its acid levels fall quickly, which make it flabby. Chardonnay isn�t strongly aromatic: some detect anything from apples (or barely ripe apples in Chablis) and melon in Maconnais Chardonnay to tropical fruit flavours in New World examples. Common descriptives, however, tend to refer to texture and weight rather than flavour � buttery for broader styles, such as Meursault from the Cote de Beaune; steely for Montrachets and nutty for Corton-Charlemagne. There�s an attractive leanness to fine Cote d�Or white burgundy, that sets it apart from Chardonnays from the rest of the world, but this can be emulated further south in the Cote Chalonnaise and Maconnais in good vintages with clever winemaking.

Malbec

The black Malbec grape is used to make red wine in Bordeaux, the Loire and south west France, where it is grown under a number of different names. It is known as Pressac in Bordeaux, Auxerrois in Cahors and C�t in the Loire. In Argentina, it's adopted land, Malbec has been grown in quantity and is now successfully exported around the world. The grape can create both fruit-driven, plummy-like characteristics, but in Cahors it tends to gamey aromas and has quite considerable ageing potential. A mid-season ripener in Bordeaux, Malbec can bring very deep colour and ample tannins to create a great base for blended wines. It is also planted in New Zealand, Chile, California and Australia where it is used in blends rather than as a single varietal wine.

Torrontes

Torrontes is the white grape of Argentina – or perhaps we should say three grapes - and is cultivated in the provinces of Catamarca, La Rioja, Mendoza, Salta, San Juan and Rio Negro. Certainly, the grape with this name seems very well adapted to the arid growing conditions of the country and produces its best in the high, sandy vineyards of the Cafayate Valley (Salta). Torrontes Riojano is the most common sub-variety. This bigger-berried grape with compact bunch clusters takes its name from the northern province of La Rioja and is better suited for the production of fine wines. Torrontes Sanjuanino, planted in the province of San Juan, as its name suggests, and Torrontes Mendocino, from the province of Mendoza and also found in Rio Negro, are both better suited to producing fresh, youthful wines for early drinking. Torrontes is believed to have arrived from Spain with Basque settlers and has ties to the Muscat of Alexandria grape, which accounts for it sometimes displaying aromas similar to Muscat. That’s when it’s not showing Viognier-like hints of peach, flowers and orange fruit, or even slightly Gewurztraminer-esque characteristics of rose plus maybe jasmine and geranium. Whatever, grown well, this variety can be very fragrant, high in acidity and bursting with fruity and floral notes on the palate. Today in Spain Torrontes’ home is the Ribeiro region in the north but there is debate about whether there is, in fact, any relationship between these two grapes apart from a name. It’s also found in Chile - most of this is the Torrontes Riojano variety, which is known there as Torontel.