Northern Rhône's Grapes: Marsanne, Roussanne, Syrah, Viognier

Marsanne

French grape Marsanne, which produces full-bodied, scented wines, is a white variety that is growing in popularity, probably because of its relative productivity. Certainly, in the northern Rhone, where it’s thought to originate, it’s now become the favoured blending partner, rather than Roussanne, in appellations like St-Joseph, Crozes-Hermitage, St-Peray, and Hermitage, to a lesser extent. Marsanne is also finding increasing favour with growers in the south of France, where it’s now an allowed ingredient in most of the appellations and earning itself brownie points as a characterful varietal as well as a blending partner for more aromatic, acid grapes, such as Roussanne, Viognier and Rolle. The produced wine is deep-coloured and full-bodied with a heady aroma reminiscent of anything from glue and honeysuckle to hints of almonds, while its drawback – a tendency to be flabby – has been diminished by modern wine-making techniques. Known as Marsana in northeast Spain, this grape is also found in Australia – where you’d expect to find the addition of some tropical characteristics in the wines – as well as California. It’s also grown in Switzerland, where it’s called Ermitage Blanc and produces dry and light as well as complex sweet wines in Valais.

Roussanne

Roussanne is a white grape most notably grown in the Rhone and so-called because of the russet � or roux � colour of its skin. It�s a fragile vine that gives irregular yields and is susceptible to powdery mildew, rot and wind, although better clones have helped. It ripens late, which can be a problem in the Northern Rhone but less so in Languedoc-Roussillon, another of its homes. Other places it crops up include the Var, the Savoie (where it�s called Bergeron), Liguria and Tuscany (where it�s permitted in Italy�s Montecarlo Bianco), California and Australia. It�s best asset is its haunting aroma, which has been described as like refreshing herb tea, but it also has good acidity, allowing it to age gracefully. It is a frequently blended grape, particularly in the Rhone. There Roussanne is the elegant, delicate grape to the big fat higher-yielding Marsanne. Together they are the only varieties permitted in the white versions of Northern Rhone appellations Hermitage, Crozes-Hermitage and St-Joseph as well as the often sparkling St-Peray. Roussanne is also a permitted variety in Chateauneuf-du-Pape. It�s also adds useful body to other varieties, including Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon and Chardonnay.

Syrah

Shiraz and Syrah are the same grape. However apart from Australia where it is always called Shiraz, and France where it is Syrah, the rest of the world tends to follow the style of these two. If the wine is ripe and full bodied the wine is often called Shiraz. If the wine has less fruit, more acidity and lower alcohol, it tends to be called Syrah after the wines produced into the North of Rhone. Shiraz/Syrah is produced by itself or can be blended typically in three ways. A small amount of the white grape Viognier can lift the deep flavours of Syrah, this is common in Northern Rhone. In Southern Rhone and recently Australia, blending has been based around adding Grenache and Mourvedre, copying the blending behind Chateauneuf-du-Pape. Even more recently Cabernet Sauvignon and Shiraz/Syrah has been blended in the Southern French wine region of Languedoc, creating big wines with elegance. Hotter climate Shiraz often has aromas of plum, tar and leather and with the right oak treatment even chocolate. Cooler climate Syrah can have a peppery note to the wine.

Viognier

Viognier is a French grape, originally grown in Northern Rhone in Condrieu. It is also planted in Southern France, California, Australia and Argentina. It likes a warm climate but is prone to mildew. The grapes are deep yellow resulting in a wine that is deeply coloured and high in alcohol. It produces full-bodied wines that in the best examples taste and smell of apricots, peaches and blossom. Highly perfumed, Viognier makes a good wine to blend with other varieties, e.g. Chardonnay. Best drunk young.